The cyclone season is approaching, and with the Marshall Islands being our destination for the coming months, we had to leave our friends in Musket Cove, and work our way from the southwest of Fiji towards the northeast.
The weather did not make the journey particularly straightforward. Wind and rain followed us north, so rather than rushing, we tucked into a few anchorages along the way and waited for better conditions. Our stops at Nananu-i-Cake, Naigani and Makogai turned out to be much more interesting than simply places to hide from the weather.
Nananu-i-Cake
Nananu-i-Cake is a privately owned island just off the northern coast of Viti Levu (means Big Fiji), which is the largest island in Fiji. Before heading ashore, we met the island’s caretaker and asked if it was okay for us to go for a hike. We were very welcome to explore the island, as long as we stayed away from the private residence and grounds.
The island has actually been privately owned by the same family since 1974, when British businessman and politician Sir Harold Mitchell bought it as a family retreat. Today, the entire 575-acre island is for sale, with an asking price of US$12 million.
We eventually made our way down onto the reef at low tide. Scattered across it were old traditional fish traps, built by arranging rocks into walls and enclosures on the reef. As the tide receded, fish would become trapped behind the stone walls, making them easier to collect.
Naigani
We spent three nights at the Nananu-i-Cake anchorage, before we had a good window to move to our next stop, which was Naigani island, which was only a little more than 30 nautical miles away.
At Naigani, we went ashore and hiked about 15 minutes to the small village to present the kava root for the sevusevu (welcoming ceremony). The village chief was away working on his plantation, so we were welcomed by the stand-in chief instead.
Afterwards, two women from the village walked back across the island with us, on their way to collect coconuts to feed the pigs. We had a lovely chat along the way and, before parting, had to take a picture of us all together. It was another one of those simple encounters that has made our time in Fiji so special, and another reminder of just how warm and welcoming Fijians are.
Makogai
After spending a night in the Naigani anchorage, we had a window to sail the 20 nautical miles to the next island, Makogai. This island used to be home to one of the Pacific’s most important leprosy settlements. Thousands of people affected by leprosy were brought here from Fiji and other Pacific islands, separated from their families and communities and sent to live on this remote island.
Today, Makogai has a research center that grows giant clams, and we were fortunate to meet Mere, who lives on Makogai, and offered to show us around.
After we had toured the marine research facilities, Mere took us to a part of the island where there were still traces of the the former leprosy colony. She took us past the remains of buildings and other traces of the community that once existed here.
At its height, Makogai was much more than a medical facility. It became an entire community, with accommodation, hospital, church, cinema, jail and other facilities needed to support the patients and staff living here. People came from across the Pacific, many knowing that they might spend years, or even the rest of their lives, far away from home.
After one night by Makogai, it was time to continue northeast. Our next stop is Namena marine reserve, which we have visited earlier this season. It will be our last anchorage in Fiji, before we head to Nawi Marina in Savusavu to prepare the boat and check out of the country.
