Qamea, Fiji – hospitality personified at Namata Bay

If there is one thing Fiji is famous for beyond its turquoise waters and spectacular reefs, it is the warmth of its people. “Bula” (“hi” in Fijian) is far more than a greeting, it is an expression of genuine kindness and a willingness to make visitors feel welcome. Throughout our time in Fiji, we have experienced countless acts of generosity and openness to visitors, but the hospitality of Namata Bay on the island of Qamea, was especially heartfelt.

We arrived expecting a beautiful anchorage that would keep us safe from an upcoming blow. We were warmly welcomed by Siah and Kai from the Mitchell family, who populates all of the houses in the bay.  They greeted us with a level of warmth, generosity, and authenticity that reminded us that the greatest highlights of cruising are often the human connections we make along the way.

Siah and Kai’s garden.
Siah and Kai’s house.
Kai and Siah, the most lovely and welcoming couple.

Drying coconuts for copra farming in the garden.

Siah and Kai have both worked in the hospitality industry for many years. Marriot hotels used to have a five start resort on a neighbouring island, but unfortunately Covid too the resort out of business. They are now retired, and cream of making a homestay at their house, with 2-3 extra rooms to rent.

In the meantime, they are happy to host lunch or dinner for visiting sailors on their property. We were in the bay with two other boats we know from before, and booked lunch for one of the days we were there.

Siah making the final preparations on the beautifully set lunch table.
Coconut drinks for each – notice the eco-friendly straw!

We were six cruisers total; Brioni and Iain from SV Indioko, Ann and Ian from SV Tourterelles, and us.

We made several visits to Siah and Kai’s house, and met several of their family members, who lived in several different houses located on the beach. We also met some of the latest additions to the family – some newly born puppies.

Siah and Kai’s grandson, with one of the two puppies – just about one month old.
Brioni from SV Indioko with one of the adorable puppies.

With some guidance from the Mitchell family, we went on a hike to the village on the other side of the island. We were warned that the trail was not easy to find, and they actually recommended us to use one of their younger family members as guide. We were full of confidence, and mentioned how much we hike when we were back in Norway, so we would certainly find our way.

This is the church at the end of the beach, where we were told the trail starts from.
There was a small cluster of houses that sat right where the trail started, which all were populated by different members of the Mitchell family.

Searching for the trail taking us off the beach on our side.

Well… it turned out that the most difficult part of the hike, was finding the right trail from the get-go. Which, we did not manage to do. So, we ended up in thick bushes for at least an hour, and were very close to giving up. But, a last attempt to find the trail on the other side of the ridge, “soon” took us downhill on a newfound trail.

Some serious bush whacking going on an we had definitely lost the trail at this point.

After we reached the first settlement, we were pointed in the direction to the main village, and were told to follow what they now called a road.

The road to the main village.

After three hours on a hike that should take maximum two hours, we arrived at the Naiviivi village. A little bruised on our legs, but still with good spirits.

One of the bridges leading into the main part of the village.

One of the houses in Naivivii village, with a couple of comfy hammock out front.
Every village has a church.
The primary school had also living accommodations for the pupils form neighbouring islands.

We were hoping we might get a ride back by boat, but soon discovered that the tide was low, and all of the boats were basically sitting on the hard. Waiting for 3-4 hours before the tide was up again, did not seem like an option, so we ended up hiking back again as well. This time, it took us less than two hours, and we found the trail all the way back to our side of the island.

It was low tide when we arrived in the village.

We stayed five days and nights in Namata bay on Qamea island, and left after we made an entry into Siah and Kai’s guest book.

We would love to return and visit them again, and really hope they get their homestay up and running. Vinaka vakalevu, Siah and Kai and the rest of the Mitchell family!