After we had checked into Penrhyn, Cook Islands, in Omoka, the main village on the west side of the lagoon, we quickly moved to the more sheltered eastern side. There is a small village there, called Te Tautua, with only 20 inhabitants, and they are known to be very friendly towards cruisers.
Just how friendly they were, was not something we could ever have imagined… We have never felt this welcomed on our journey, ever. Kura, the matriarch of the family, opened her heart, doors to her house and garden, as well as her family to us.
She had a lovely home just by the waters, with the most beautiful garden. She told us very clearly that we were allowed to come and hang there whenever we liked.
We quickly learned that Kura makes arts and crafts, and was very busy with preparing for a big upcoming celebration. Every day she was doing something, like making costumes, preparing food or making her shell and straw handicrafts.
After getting to know Kura, we went for a stroll in the little village. It is located on a stretched out motu (islet), and is divided by passes on each side. It took us about 25 minutes to walk from one side to the other, across the whole motu.
The town only has 20 inhabitants, however we discovered there are more houses. Some of them were abandoned – some of them forever, and some of them temporarily. There is a supply ship arriving here only every 3-4 months, and it does not have a regular schedule. This means that if you have to leave the island for a medical appointment, for example, you might end up being gone for 6-8 months, before you can get back to the island. This is the main reason why some of the houses were abandoned only temporarily.
We spent many occasions with Kura and her family members, it seemed there was always something to do together. We enjoyed helping them prepare for the big 60th celebration of Cook Island’s independence, which would take place the following month in the capital, Avarua on the island of Rarotonga.
The Noxoma crew was the only ones of the cruisers who willingly joined in husking close to 200 coconuts at the family’s coco farm on a motu a little south in the atoll. The captain got heavy blisters on his hands, as a result of the trial as a copra farmer. We understood after a while why the other cruisers rather preferred to shred the coconuts we harvested.
As part of the preparations for the independence day, the family was also fishing almost every day. Most of the fish which was caught was put in the freezer and saved for the big feast.
When two of the boats were about to leave, the whole family hosted a big dinner party for all the cruisers, in total 12 cruisers and 8 family members. We enjoyed an evening of socializing, witnesses ukulele and guitar jam sessions, and just hung out together. It was certainly one of our favorite nights on our journey!
There is no ciguatera in Penrhyn, which means that for the first time in almost a year, we can eat the reef fish living inside the lagoon. The captain was eager to spearfish again, and caught lots of yummy fish we enjoyed on the bbq.
The local sharks were very keen on the fish as well, so the trick was to very soon after the fish was speared, pull it up, and hold it above water until he could place it in the dinghy.
On of our last days, we went on an outing to the Southern islets together with Te, Kura’s brother in law and Celia, Kura’s niece, who was only 7 years old. We enjoyed a lovely day in crystal clear waters. We snorkeled, played with turtles, fished for trevally, and the captain spear fished a snapper we had for dinner. We had a great day on the waters, and also stopped by a weekend home of some friends of them, where we had lunch.
Religion is a very important part of the life in Penhryn. No activities are allowed that day, and you are only allowed to use any kind of motor driven vehicle to get to church. The villagers were eager for us to join their service, so that we did. Women need to cover their shoulder and knees, as well as their heads. Men should wear shirts and pants, but no closed shoes needed (the captain was very happy about that). So, we both dressed up, and headed into shore and church service.
We left Penrhyn after 12 days, feeling that we could easily have been here a lot longer. This has been one of our top destinations after we started sailing. This is what we dreamed of – getting to know locals, learn about their customs and way of living, and become a part of their daily life. Kura and her family are the most hospitable people we have met in our entire life, and we treasured the time we had here. These memories will live with us forever – that is for sure.
Kura – thank you for having us and sharing your life with us! ❤️
